Raja Ampat, often referred to as "the last paradise on Earth," left an indelible mark on our hearts and a profound appreciation for the natural world. After experiencing even a small taste of what this tropical paradise has to offer, it's easy to see why Raja Ampat is considered one of the most breathtaking destinations on the planet. Beneath its stunning surface, Raja Ampat boasts an array of ancient forests and lush landscapes that will leave you in awe at every turn. The marine life is nothing short of breathtaking, with vibrant coral reefs teeming with marine life. On land, encounters with metre-long crabs, extraordinary marsupials, and unfamiliar reptiles left lasting impressions. It's impossible to leave Raja Ampat without being filled with a sense of responsibility to protect its pristine beauty from the mounting environmental challenges of modern life. For founder Max Ammer and his team of responsible travel pioneers, protecting the natural world is a mission they take on with unwavering commitment every single day. As they put it, "it's a mission we take on with unwavering commitment." With their dedication to sustainable tourism, Raja Ampat has become a model for eco-luxury resorts and responsible travel. To reach Raja Ampat, international travellers must fly into Jakarta, Indonesia's capital, before taking a domestic flight to Sorong in Southwest Papua. From there, options include joining a dive boat, taking a local ferry to Waisai on Waigeo Island, or arranging a speedboat transfer to the island or resort of choice. We opted for the latter and reached Kri Island within a couple of hours of leaving Sorong's port on a shared transfer to Sorido Bay Resort. Sorido Bay Resort, located on the pristine shores of Kri Island, offered an unparalleled eco-luxury experience. Our Sentani Bungalow provided direct beach access and was designed using local materials and traditional architectural styles, blending comfort and environmental consciousness. Evenings spent in a hammock, serenaded by the sounds of jungle and sea, were the perfect way to unwind, while mornings began with strong coffee and the prospect of another day in paradise. Raja Ampat's underwater world surpassed all expectations, revealing a kaleidoscope of colour and biodiversity. Crystal-clear waters revealed vibrant coral reefs, thriving marine life, shimmering shoals of fish, graceful turtles, majestic manta rays at cleaning stations, and the distant sight of dolphins and whales surfacing as we travelled to our next adventure. Each day, returning divers and snorkellers shared stories of their underwater sightings with an enthusiasm that was impossible to resist. The sense of interconnectedness within this marine ecosystem left a deep impression — and a renewed sense of responsibility to protect it. Life on land proved equally captivating, with guests at Sorido Bay Resort able to trek to the sister Kri Eco Resort, visit the on-site zebra shark nursery that raises and releases endangered zebra sharks, or book a relaxing spa treatment after a day in the ocean. The surrounding scenery is breathtaking, with the nearby Fam Islands offering a dreamscape of turquoise lagoons, towering limestone karsts, empty beaches, mangroves, and yet more marine life. At Sorido Bay Resort, meals were included in our stay, and as vegan travellers, we were thrilled to find a thoughtful range of plant-based options. Travelling to remote islands with limited dining choices can often be a concern, but Sorido Bay delivered in abundance. Plant-based proteins like tempeh and tofu featured prominently, alongside flavour-packed vegetable dishes and homemade condiments such as a spicy sambal made from chillies, garlic, tomatoes, and shallots. Standouts included the sticky soy-glazed tempeh and the rich jackfruit in coconut milk, while vegan pancakes with fruit, nuts, and cinnamon ensured a delicious start to the day. Kri Eco Resort, founded by Max Ammer, has been a pioneer in responsible tourism since its inception. As an area's first dive resort, Kri Eco Resort set the standard for sustainable tourism in Raja Ampat. Our stay in a bright and airy Deluxe Water Cottage was an unforgettable experience, with falling asleep to the rhythm of the ocean and jungle being a highlight. Living on Kri Island may be the stuff of tropical dreams, but it comes with the responsibility of protecting fragile ecosystems under increasing pressure from tourism. From what we observed — and what we were told — both Sorido Bay and Kri Eco Resort are setting the standard, minimising their environmental footprint and showing what responsible tourism can look like in practice. The operators of both resorts, Papua Divers, support a wide range of community and environmental initiatives. These include education programmes, conservation efforts, and the Raja Ampat Research and Conservation Centre — a hub for sustainable tourism, research, and community outreach. Guests are encouraged to refill reusable metal water bottles at designated stations, and bathroom amenities are natural, reef-safe, locally sourced, and provided in refillable dispensers. Raja Ampat had been on our bucket list for over two decades, and it did not disappoint. But without strict governance and responsible operators, its pristine beauty is at risk. As travellers, we hold the power to influence the future — by researching who we stay with, who we dive with, and how we engage with the destination.
